Technical File: First Attempt at an Elizabethan Hairstyle

Elizabethan Hairstyle

Prior to this session, we were told that we would be working on others in the class rather than our Kate heads for the first time and that we were to do an Elizabethan hairstyle that had to be curled or frizzy at the front with a bun at the back. For mine, I decided to go with a heart shape at the front of the head. To do this I sectioned off the hair at the front of the head and then crimped it, splitting the hair into a middle parting. I really liked the way this turned out as I felt that it did look very Elizabethan and I found it quite easy to do.

I then backcombed it in sections, twisted and then pushed it up and pinned it on each side to create the shape of the heart.  For the back of the hair I decided to do a plait bun so I put the hair up in a ponytail, plaited it and then twisted it and secured it in place by pinning it with Kirby grips.

As there was still hair that was crimped being pulled into the plait I decided to undo the bun and redo it as it looked a bit strange due the different textures of the hair with some of it being straight and some of it being crimped. I decided to plait the crimped pieces of hair and pull them back into the bun. I much preferred the way that this looked and I really enjoyed this session as it was different to work on another person and it was interesting to be able to come up with our own designs for a whole hairstyles.

Elizabethan and Modern Hair Shapes

Heart- Shaped

These Elizabethan portraits  (the first is Elizabeth I, second is Lettice Knollys, the wife of Robert Dudley and the last one Elizabeth Brydges, a noblewoman) show some heart-shapes hair styles.The "heart-shape arrangement of the hair over wire frames or pads which as fashionable during the 1570's and 1580's continued to be popluar until the end of the century." (De Courtais, 2006, Women's Hats, Headdresses and Hairstyles, New York: Dover Publications Inc.)

These modern hairstyles, one from the 2010 Spring/Summer Chanel catwalk and one of Vivienne Westwood, show some heart-shaped styles although these appear more extreme that the Elizabethan portraits and are quite a lot bigger. The hair in the Chanel image is also straight and smooth whereas it tends to be curly or frizzy in the portraits. The Vivienne Westwood image appears to be exactly like a typical Elizabethan hairstyle. This is also because of the decoration as pearls and gems were often used in the hair in Elizabethan times to show wealth in portraits. Here is an example of this:

We can see a lot of this is modern hairstyles as well:

These images from one of Chanel's 2012 catwalks shows pearls being used in the hair.

Round Hair 

These images show rounded hairstyles from the Elizabethan period, the first is of an unknown Elizabethan women but the second two are of Elizabeth.

                                                     

I found it more difficult to gather modern images of rounded hair-styles although one I did find shows the style to be much more subtle and with smooth/straight hair.

I also found some modern hairstyles that are big and rounded, although the rest of the hair is worn down so differs from the Elizabethan style. The shape on the top of the head does seem similar to an Elizabethan hair style. 

I felt that this image looked quite Elizabeth not only because of the shape but also because of the plait.

De Courtais, 2006, Women's Hats, Headdresses and Hairstyles, New York: Dover Publications Inc.

http://www.historytoday.com/sites/default/files/Elizabeth_I_(Armada_Portrait).jpg

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0e/Lettice_Knollys1.jpg

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/22/Elizabeth_Brydges_1589.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/86/86/9a/86869aa5d60d0d7ab587b0b909d83717.jpg

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju6-dLZEF9ZPCun-obnWoZFzaMDfaOUY885v8VLZ9-s4tIdL9r1JebAGaI06ip2MJv0PulvNToSHbHQjQp_ywxVTOe_w4-F0iGpv7TDpqjhSmgUCid4iG99q4cNXYFzizDlVZRKxDBDufP/s1600/vivienne+westwood+1.jpg

http://ndla.no/sites/default/files/images/Queen_Elizabeth_I_by_George_Gower.jpg

http://www.weddingsonline.ie/fs/img/spring-summer-2012-hair-beauty3.jpg

http://www.weddingsonline.ie/fs/img/spring-summer-2012-hair-beauty4.jpg

https://nttreasurehunt.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/lym_loan_20-cropped.jpg

http://wanclik.tade.free.fr/TheRainbowPortrait_of_QueenElizabeth_I_arquivos/image004.jpg

http://www.marileecody.com/gloriana/elizabethpelican.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/70x/74/c7/18/74c718207a85a55ff74aa606a2b3cdfc.jpg

http://www.hairpediaclub.com/wp-content/uploads/Elegant-Log-Retro-Hairstyles-01.jpg

http://img.allw.mn/content/hair/2012/01/9_big-hair.jpg

Elizabethan and Modern Curls and Frizz

Curls
Curls were very popular during Elizabethan times, Elizabeth is almost always seen with curls in her hair if her hair is not frizzed. The curls were often very tight and at the front of the head while the rest was in a bun at the back of the head.

When looking at more modern styles, curls are still very popular although they tend to be a lot looser and the hair tends to be worn down rather than on top on the head.

This style is quite similar to an Elizabethan one, it's a bit more extreme and wild looking but still is in tight curls.

Frizz

In this image of Elizabeth, its clear to see the frizz in the parts of her hair that fall by the sides of her face. Curls have also been incorporated into this hairstyle .

These modern looks appear to be Elizabethan inspired. The colour of the hair does add to this effect but the tight curls and the frizz are also very similar. It does appear that most modern styles that are frizzy are worn down so this is a complete contrast to the Elizabethan hairstyles.

http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2014/06/11/article-2654917-1EA6207600000578-886_306x423.jpg

https://2static3.fjcdn.com/comments/Bwa+ha+ha+ha+ha+he+wanted+a+son+so+_d7ad2fc8fd1a9c694874edc227942638.jpg

https://scdailymakeover.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/georgia-may-jagger-hp.jpg

http://ell.h-cdn.co/assets/cm/15/03/640x960/54b4f8fd4de69_-_elle-junya-watanabe-fall-2013-rtw-30-de-1920186-xln.jpg

http://wanclik.tade.free.fr/TheRainbowPortrait_of_QueenElizabeth_I_arquivos/image004.jpg

http://www.maydae.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/big-marc-done-5.jpg

https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0cQB9JYW32QBwQhw5o1XM7oqF905DeKslxGzfumXjhCTuWc3sF9uDRvDcZpkCoA2_uTUOd-wz_7jQK2thPtA9gqTWwjHsC_F4z4XNP9e5HhOGCG-lKtZDc9-q0sZPTzqLhv8RQDy-UrQ/s1600/manage-frizzy-hair.jpg

https://blueplateny.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/marc-jacobs-frizzy-hair1.jpg

Elizabethan and Modern Plats and Buns

Elizabethan:

These two images of unknown Elizabethan women shows both buns and plaits in the hairstyles. These tend to be pulled in very tightly and are quite harsh looking.

Modern:

Here are some more modern plaits:

These images are obviously a lot more modern but also have an Elizabethan style to them. This is probably because all of the hair has been used and although the hair styles are not as tight on the head, they still resemble an Elizabethan hairstyle.

Modern Buns:

These hairstyles incorporate buns but are quite different from the Elizabethan style. They tend to be a lot looser and, as can be seen in the first image, a lot of the time are a lot higher up on the head.





http://www.naergilien.info/marystuart/Jewelry1.JPG

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/d2/aa/2f/d2aa2f8d14b98fa60eacab4bee3734f7.jpg

http://theupcoming.flmedialtd.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Plaits-image-six.jpg

https://41.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lwzg5uXRCO1r87xsoo1_500.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/7f/16/98/7f169857f0f2c2ba6056ca59be96b275.jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/07/2b/5c/072b5cc57f80e3452a7c6f7fccc53fb2.jpg

Introduction to Elizabethan Hairstyles

Introduction to Elizabethan Hair

When I think of Elizabethan hair, the first thing I tend to think about is the red colour and big hairstyles. Elizabeth I always appeared to have her hair in tight curls or frizzed in some way at the front. From this a lot of big round or heart-shaped hairstyles were created at the front of the head. These shapes were often created by placing the hair "over wires or pads to create a heart-shaped frame around the head." (www.chertseymuseum.org/hair). The hair would often be wigs and it's well known that Elizabeth herself owned a lot of wigs.

It was also very common for women of status to wear things in their hair such as as gold or pearls. Andre Hurault-Sieur de Maisse, who was the French ambassador at Elizabeth's court in 1597 decribed Elizabeth's hair as a "great reddish-colored wig, with a great number of spangles of gold and silver, and hanging down over her forehead some pearls"  (www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/elizabethI.htm). The film 'Elizabeth: The Golden Age', shows many of these kinds of hairstyles:

As well as pearls and gold, wealthier women would also wear things like feathers and ribbons (although ribbons would also be worn by people who were not as wealthy). Occasionally we can also see hats being worn in portraits by Elizabeth. 

The wealthy women who could afford it would try to emulate Elizabeth's hair as she set the fashions at the time and it's clear to see through portraits the influence she had:

(A portrait of Lady Mary Kytson, it is clear to see that people who could afford it would often emulate Elizabeth's hairstyles.)

 (Portraits of two unknown Elizabethan women showing tight curls in the hair and pearls as decoration.)

Chertsey Museum , 2015, Hair: The Styling of Society (Viewed18/10/2015) Available from: http://www.chertseymuseum.org/hair

Eyewitness to History, 2004, An Audience with Queen Elizabeth I (Viewed 18/10/2015) . Available from: http://www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/elizabethI.htm

(Elizabeth: The Golden Age, 2007, Directed by Shekhar Kapur)

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bf/Queen_Elizabeth_I_by_George_Gower.jpg

http://englishhistory.net/tudor-img/monarchs/eliz1-rainbow.jpg

http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Kytson,Mary(CRivers).jpg

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/2e/c8/0b/2ec80b683e649e997ed2f2a69830b5a8.jpg

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e1/Attributed_to_Marcus_Gheeraerts_II_-_Portrait_of_an_Unknown_Lady_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg

Technical File: Crimping

Crimping

In our next session, we worked on different ways of crimping the hair. For the first way, I used fine pins and wrapped small sections of hair around them, in a figure of eight motion. I then held the hair in place using Kirby grips until I’d finished using all of the sections of hair at the front of the head that I wanted to crimp. Then I held hair straighteners on each of the sections of hair before letting go and taking out all the pins. This created a crimped piece of hair that I decided to brush through to create frizzy hair at the front of the head, much like the Elizabethans would have. I personally preferred this method to using the crimper as I felt the crimps in the hair created a better frizz to the hair than the crimper did.

After this I crimped the hair using a crimper. This was done by sectioning off hair that wasn’t currently being used and taking smaller sections of hair to hold the crimper on down the length of the hair. I started at the nape of the neck and the underneath of the hair on the sides of the head first, before finishing at the top in a centre parting. After all the hair was crimped, I shook it out and then brushed through lightly with a paddle brush, like with the pins, to create a frizz through the hair. We were then told to create a heart shape hairstyle at the front of the head so tried out two different techniques to do this. For the first one I sectioned off part of the hair at the front of the head and then backcombed in smaller sections from the parting and down the side of the head. I then brought all the hair together, twisted it around and pinned it at the back of the section of hair to create the bun at the front of the head. For the other side of the head I used a rat (tights stuffed ith either tissue, fabric or cotton wool) and rolled it around a section of hair at the front of the head and then pinned it into place. Another was of doing this is to make a small french plait underneath where the rat will be placed and then to pin the rat into place using kirby grips and the plait. I personally preferred the side that had been backcombed as I found it a bit more difficult with the rat as it was difficult to disguise under the hair. I feel that if I were to do something similar for my assessment I would probably use backcombing. 

                                       

Technical File: Curls

Curls

During this session we focused on curls. I did two different types of curls on each side of the head using curling tongs. On one side I held the tongs vertically (spiral curls) and held in sections of hair for twelve seconds. I then removed the tongs and pinned the curls into place using Kirby grips to help them set. The other side was similar but I held the tongs horizontally (lift curls)  and then pinned them into place after the curl was created. After the whole head was done I took out all of the grips and shook the head to make them looser and lightly brushed them through with a paddle brush. I personally thought that the curls on the left side of the head (the spiral curls) looked better because there was more volume to them. I also found it easier to section the hair for these curls.

      

Next we moved onto brick work. This is a technique of sectioning the hair to get even curls, for example, one on top, then two underneath then three underneath that and then one underneath that.  I felt like this helped me when it came to sectioning as it’s something I struggle with.